Kogensha, Morioka: A Nostalgic Bookstore Inspired by the World of Kenji Miyazawa

Nestled quietly in the city of Morioka, “Kogensha” has its roots in the printing house that published Kenji Miyazawa’s first edition of The Restaurant of Many Orders, and even today, it is a spot where you can still feel the story lingering in the space. You can freely come and go in the cobblestone courtyard, where peaceful time flows amid dappled sunlight through the trees and the aroma of coffee.

Surrounded by a retro atmosphere as if you had wandered into the setting of a fairy tale, while gently taking in the scenery and culture of Iwate that Kenji loved—why not set out on such a “nostalgic stroll” yourself?

In this article, based on information and photos from the author’s own visit, we introduce the worldview of Kenji Miyazawa at “Kogensha.”

Highlights of “Kogensha,” a Place Associated with Kenji Miyazawa

Taisho-Romantic Courtyard Scenery of Cobblestones and Retro Buildings

The moment you step inside, an alley with a beautiful contrast of brick and plaster stretches out, with timeworn cobblestones under your feet. Slightly mossy stones and the green of trees sparkle under the morning sunlight filtering through the leaves. Wooden-framed glass doors and classic iron lamps that carry traces of the Taisho era into the present line up like the set of a story, naturally drawing your imagination to the nearly century-long history Kogensha has walked.

Literary Cafe Time at “Kahikan,” Fragrant with Drip Coffee

“Kahikan,” which also has a beautiful name, is a retro and stylish coffee shop evoking the Taisho era, operating in the courtyard of “Kogensha.” In the early afternoon, it also becomes a coffee shop where neighborhood ladies (?) gather, and laughter is often heard inside. Freshly brewed coffee is delicious and offers a flavor that lets you catch your breath; it is a coffee shop you definitely want to drop by during a stroll. (Photography inside is prohibited.)

A quiet stretch along the Kitakami River

Leaving Kahikan and heading farther back, your view opens up and the clear stream of the Kitakami River appears. Standing along the fence, a cool breeze across the river surface brushes your cheeks, with sunlight filtering through the tree branches. On the white wall behind you, a verse of Kenji Miyazawa’s poem is written in ink characters, letting you feel a unique tranquility where literature and nature meet—truly a “space where you feel a healing breeze.”

White Walls That Evoke the Poems of Kenji Miyazawa

On the white walls topped with indigo tile roofs, verses of Kenji Miyazawa’s poems are written in ink characters, as if breathing as part of the scenery. The lines bleeding with black ink feel like a “canvas of poetry” that visualizes the nature and prayers of Tohoku spoken by Kenji. It is a white wall overflowing with quaint charm.

A Museum for Reflecting on Kenji Miyazawa

There is a cozy exhibition room (museum). Inside the glass cases, primary materials that still carry the breath of creation—such as copies of Kenji Miyazawa’s drafts, letters, and proofreading sheets of the first edition—are lined up. On the walls, woodblock prints and cover art motifs of Kenji’s works are also hung, their colors faintly floating under soft spotlights.

Visit notes: Kogensha on a sunny weekday

One Day in June 2025: Walking to “Kogensha” from Morioka Station on a Fine Weekday

On one day in June 2025, I went from Tokyo to Morioka and visited “Kogensha.” Although you can walk from Morioka Station to Zaimokucho where “Kogensha” is located, there is a bit of distance, so I put my suitcase in a locker at Morioka Station to travel light.

Leaving Morioka Station, crossing the river (bridge), and walking for about 10 to 15 minutes brings you to Zaimokucho Street. The sidewalk is paved with cobblestones, making it a simple-looking yet quaint street. Walking a little farther, “Kogensha” comes into view on the left.

The exterior of “Kogensha” also has a design that feels romantic, making it feel as if you were time-traveling to the Taisho era just by standing in front of the shop. The items on sale are also wonderful, and taking your time to browse and shop here seems nice too.

Entering the courtyard of “Kogensha,” the harmony between the brick-style building and the white walls is beautifully set out, and the items on display are all old-fashioned yet novel things that catch the heart; I had already stepped into a space filled with the atmosphere of Kenji Miyazawa.

Heading to the back of the courtyard, the Kitakami River riverbed that comes into view and the river breeze you feel are pleasant.

Because there are almost no tourists on weekday afternoons, under the clear blue sky in the early afternoon with good sunlight, it is a wonderful spot where you can step into the worldview of Kenji Miyazawa at “Kogensha.”

The pairing of the beauty of the Kitakami River seen on the way back from “Kogensha” to Morioka Station and the blue sky of Morioka made me feel the freshness and charm of regional Japanese cities even more.

Morioka City, Iwate Prefecture is a city of rivers; the historic city shaped alongside clear streams nurtures people’s steady lives and gentle feelings, making it a truly wonderful city. Great for sightseeing, great for living—it is one of the recommended cities in Japan.

Photogenic Photo Spots

“Kogensha,” the courtyard where you can feel the thoughts of Kenji Miyazawa, and Zaimokucho Street are full of photogenic spots. You will definitely want to take photos as travel memories too.

The back of “Kogensha” as seen from the courtyard side is also a quaint, photo-worthy spot, with the glass-fronted store interior, stairs up to the second floor, and harmony with the surrounding white walls.

You are also drawn to the small-goods shop visible beyond the cute bamboo grove. Just like a Japanese garden that conveys Japanese beauty with Taisho-style architecture and a grove of bamboo, being able to capture the Japanese-style small-goods shop and those elements in a single photo is also part of the charm of “Kogensha”‘s courtyard.

Location and Access of “Kogensha”

Location

About a 10-to-15-minute walk from Morioka Station, it is just the right distance for travelers to drop by in the afternoon. On fine days, strolling along riverbeds like the Kitakami River, stopping by Zaimokucho, and relaxing with dark roast coffee at “Kahikan” is also wonderful.

Morioka Zaimokucho Is a Wonderful Shopping Street with Traditional Japanese Charm

Wonderful Shopping Street

Morioka City Zaimokucho is a quaint former wholesaler district along the Kitakami River. Earthen-walled storehouse-style streetscapes and the night markets held from time to time are popular; Kogensha, which published Kenji Miyazawa’s The Restaurant of Many Orders, and authentic coffee shops are scattered about, making it a wonderful street for strolling and cultural experiences. There are not so many shops that you would call it a commercial street, so it is a strolling route where you can walk comfortably on cobblestone sidewalks.

The retro public telephone located near the center of Zaimokucho Street is a wonderful photogenic spot.

Zaimokucho Yoichi

At the Zaimokucho Yoichi held from time to time, numerous stalls (food stands) line the road, making it a traditional “fun shopping street event” where you can walk around buying and eating beer, grilled seafood, sausages, and more. Many people come out and it is lively, and enjoying meals at tables and chairs on the road is also OK! In the hot summer, gulping down cold beer starting in the daytime is also the best.

Recommended Strolling Spots in Morioka City, Iwate Prefecture

Morioka Castle Site Park (Iwate Park), a Relaxation Spot for Morioka Citizens

The castle of Iwate’s Nambu Clan is “Kozukata Castle” (accurately “Morioka Castle”) in Morioka. Morioka Castle Site Park (Iwate Park), which now serves as a relaxation park for Morioka citizens, is a wonderful strolling spot woven from trees and castle ruins. Because it sits beside the clear Nakatsu River, pairing it with a riverside stroll lets you walk even more pleasantly.

Nostalgic “Daiji Shimizu” and Beautiful “Morioka Hachimangu”

In Morioka, an ancient capital where the atmosphere of a long-beloved river town is still alive today, the shrine “Morioka Hachimangu” somewhat away from the station and “Daiji Shimizu” about a 15-minute walk from the Hachimangu Shrine are nostalgia-evoking landmarks that bring to mind Japan’s good old days.

Strolling through “Daiji Shimizu” and “Morioka Hachimangu,” which are just right for a walk that captures good old Morioka, is also a recommended route.

Recommended Hotels in Morioka City, Iwate Prefecture

Because Morioka City, Iwate Prefecture is a castle town that later gained a Shinkansen station, as is quite common in regional cities, the traditional castle-town downtown and the area in front of the station are separate. Considering location and getting around, you may hesitate whether to stay by the station or in the downtown area to enjoy gourmet food and izakaya bars. The following article introduces recommended hotels by area in Morioka City, Iwate Prefecture.

Summary: A Nostalgic Stroll to Savor at “Kogensha” in Morioka City, Iwate Prefecture

Carrying into the present the history of sending Kenji Miyazawa’s first edition into the world, Kogensha is a complex of literature and folk crafts you can enjoy as a set—cobblestone courtyard, retro coffee shop “Kahikan,” Kitakami River deck, white walls engraved with poetry, and the Kenji museum. We have introduced a nostalgic stroll to savor at “Kogensha.”

Enjoying coffee at Kahikan while touring the courtyard, taking a deep breath by the riverside, and immersing yourself in Kenji’s world at the poetry corridor and the museum—Kogensha is one of the places that elevates a Morioka stroll into a “journey of stories.” Picking up a favorite vessel at the long-established folk craft shop lets you savor the lingering memory of the trip at home as well.

Combining it with “Zaimokucho Yoichi” or the nearby Morioka Castle Site Park to spend a nostalgic day in Morioka is also wonderful.